JUNE & JULY
picnic projects, $30 for one, $50 for two
AUGUST & SEPTEMBER
A Fashenhues Workshop — plaques or Colonial figures $20.00
posted on our Facebook page today
We have decided to announce all workshops and MVCT events via email. Many people do not frequent Facebook on a daily basis and this will ensure that everyone gets the information in a timely manner. If you wish to be on the mailing list please send your email address either by PM or by comment on this posting. Thank you.
1. Carol Warneke — personal page
2. Carol’s Carousel Creations — business page
3. Carol’s Carousel Studio Group — only for those who come to class
4. Carol’s Carousel Shop — carousels, Etsy store same name
5. African-American Kids — Af-Am Collection, Etsy store same name
6. Ceramic Studio Owners/Teachers of NE Ohio & Western PA — group of local teachers
7. MVCT Mahoning Valley Ceramic Teachers page — public
8. MVCT Mahoning Valley Ceramic Teachers Group — members only
You may sometimes see the same post on multiple pages. Sorry for the duplicates but we often have different viewers on different pages.
There is also our webpage www.CarolsCarouselCreations.com
The blog is sporadic, sometimes daily and then not for several weeks, depending on what is going on in the shop.
However, the CATALOG should be pretty much up to date. Note that CAROUSELS and AFRICAN-AMERICAN KIDS are separate tabs on the menu bar. Everything else should be in the main catalog. Click to get a Table of Contents with active links or pull down for catalog structure hierarchy.
As many of you already know, Jim and Carol have both been fighting whatever bug is going around for the last couple of months. A couple of Z-packs and a myriad of other allergy medications have helped to lesson the symptoms. Classes were closed down all last week. Feeling much better but things are still going in slow motion.
So that’s a quick update. We will hopefully be able to keep up the blog on a more regular basis. Please remember to “follow” the page and you will get the blog via email. When updates are made to the catalog, there is always mention of it in the blog with links to the page.
These are translucent underglazes that can be used on greenware, on bisque, or over other underglazes or matte glazes. They are more color concentrated than Concepts and will give you brighter colors.
Majolica is a highly decorated ware reminiscent of the Italian Renaissance period. This is a ceramic technique in which you do detailed brush work on top of unfired glaze. Usually one paints with underglazes directly onto greenware or bisque, then glazes with a clear glaze. In this case, you first paint on a matte glaze of any color and let it dry. Designs can be transferred onto the piece by first tracing onto tissue paper, and then tracing the tissue paper design with a permanent marker which will seep through onto the ware. The marker will not effect the ware because it will fire out. But it gives you guidelines to paint your design. Here are some examples of majolica.
Any glaze that does not flow during firing can be used as a base. Duncan’s new True Matte glazes are ideal.
The maple leaf on this plate was painted over a matte glaze.
We used a soft yellow base in our class.
Even if you use Concepts to paint your designs, EZ strokes may be easier to use for outlining and detailing. You use a thinned product and it flows more easily off a liner brush than the same color in Concepts.
We carry a full array of the Concepts underglazes in the studio as it will work for most applications. However, we have recently added a selection of Cover Coats (opaque underglazes — yesterday’s post) and EZ strokes, translucent underglazes. We currently have about three dozen EZ stroke colors to choose from. If you need others we will be happy to pick them up for you at our supplier.
Because most underglaze work done with EZ strokes can also be done with Concepts, we will discuss other techniques later.
The previous post talked about different types of underglazes. Cover coats were primarily designed to use on greenware. You need to paint on three even coats for full coverage, otherwise is will be uneven and streaky. Make sure it is good painting consistency and not too thick or it will peel off in the firing. The underglaze needs to be absorbed by the ware, not just layered on top. This is a good product for covering large areas, EZ strokes can be used over Cover Coats for detail work.
If transporting to another site or just uneasy about breakage when working with greenware, you can soft fire to about cone 017.
You can create original or transferred designs by scratching through the underglaze with a sharp tool. A regular cleaning tool works well. You will need to make several passes with the tool for thicker lines. The background color does not need to be solid, it can be a variety of colors. However, as you can see in the picture shown here, the sgraffito shows up the white clay underneath much better against the dark colors. This is a fun technique in which you can be very creative.
Sgraffito can also be done with Concepts on bisque, but you are only scratching through the paint and not into the underlying piece. So your lines are generally very fine.
Carving designs is very similar to doing sgraffito but the cuts are done deeper and with bigger tools. Sometimes carving is done through multiple layers of color, creating different colors in the finished piece depending on how deep each cut is made. Again, you can be creative with an original design or transfer designs to the piece. These pieces were carved directly into the greenware without benefit of underglaze.
These pictures are of carving layered clay but the same effect can be obtained by painting multiple colors of underglaze onto the piece. Make sure to use 3-5 coats so that the color is deep enough to carve through.
If you must use this product on bisque, make sure to use a wash of 50% color and 50% water on the piece before painting on your three coats of underglaze. This product was formulated for use on greenware. However, one instance where you might want to use it is when you want a solid color handle on a mug. Concepts can turn out to be streaky if you are not careful. Also, you may not have the color of choice on hand in Concepts.
We have only recently added Cover Coats to the selection of products on our shelves. We most often use Concepts because we have bisque and that product is designed for use on bisque. However, many colors of Cover Coats are on hand in pint jars for student use. Those available are outlined on the color chart. Other colors can be ordered and we will pick them up on our next trip for supplies.
Fired Products come in three types: underglazes, glazes, and overglazes.
Since we are Certified Duncan Teachers, we use primarily Duncan products which are referred to in this post. Mayco and other companies have similar products which can also be purchased at Ohio Ceramic Supply in Ravenna or other ceramic distributors around the country.
This underglaze product had been around since before we started ceramics in 1970. It is primarily colored slip in a jar, that is made to use on greenware. Three coats are needed for complete coverage. Cover Coats can be used on bisque if you first paint on a wash of 50% color and 50% water. It provides more solid coverage that Concepts.
This product has also been around for many years and is used for detailed decoration where you want a translucent effect, think of watercolors.
This product was designed for use in the current market where most people buy ready–to-paint bisque pieces. Concepts is painted directly onto bisque. It is not for use on greenware. The numbering system for Concepts is unique and makes choosing different shades quite easy. For example, light straw is 011, bright straw is 012, and dark straw is 013. In most applications, Concepts can take the place of both Cover Coats and EZ strokes as one coat is translucent and three coats is opaque. However, you must take care if you want solid coverage as it is easy to get streaks.
Color tile charts and underglaze descriptions are from the Duncan website. Today’s post is to familiarize you with the different types of underglaze and their uses.
This technique is nice on books for a leather-like finish, on figures for a paper mache’ look, or on other pieces for a textured background. First basecoat the piece with stain. Then tear up tissues or tissue paper into small pieces. Do not cut as you want the edges to be uneven. Apply pieces of tissue one at a time and cover with the same color of paint. Continue until the entire piece is covered, at least the parts you want to look like leather (not book pages). It is okay to have wrinkles and to fold tissue back on itself as long as you don’t leave any air pockets. Also make sure to not leave any smooth areas. After the paint has dried completely, drybrush with a lighter color to bring out the texture. Make sure to go in different directions to emphasize all of the wrinkles and rough edges. When this is finished you can paint on detail, such as book titles. In the case of paper mache’ you can paint the entire piece. You can see the detail in the welcome bottle cap we made at an OCS workshop; the train bookends don’t show up the leather detail very well; but the small book with Little Lulu and Tubby is fine. We once painted a clown as paper mache’ but didn’t get a picture of it. Kids can do this!
This technique uses shaving cream to create a marble effect on jars, pumpkins, ceramic eggs, and other items. First cut a piece of waxed paper large enough to bring up around the piece. Cover with about 1/2 inch of shaving cream, spreading evenly with a palette knife or popsicle stick. Drizzle color #1 back and forth horizontally across the shaving cream, then color #2 vertically in the same manner. Using the palette knife or popsicle stick, marbleize the colors as you would batter for a marble cake. If you do it too much you will get mud. We don’t want to “mix” the colors. Bring the waxed paper up around the piece pressing tightly against the ware. This is the messy part as shaving cream will ooze out. Make sure to cover the whole piece. Take to the sink (or a bucket if a sink is not available). Dispose of the waxed paper mess and rinse the ware under water until all the shaving cream is gone. Dry with a paper towel. Using a liner brush streak gold throughout the design. In the case of ornaments use red, green, and gold; in the case of pumpkins use shades of orange and brown with copper; in the case of Easter eggs use pastel colors with silver. Have fun! Kids can do this one, too!
continued from yesterday
This is a non-fired, textured paint that is thick. After stirring, you can apply it with a brush or palette knife. It leaves a rough texture on your piece. After dry buffing with a sponge or rough cloth will bring out the hidden metallic sparkles.
In January, Duncan Ambassador Larry Knight came to our MVCT meeting and taught the Duncan University class called Nature’s Skyscrapers. First we applied several colors to the sky streaking it horizontally over the entire piece. Then we traced the design on using tissue and permanent markers. After applying the granite stone according to pattern, we detailed with a liner brush and black stain.
Ruth Ann Jackson Butler teaches Fashenhues at the Ohio show and other places throughout the country. She is a Fashenhues distributor and traveling teacher and we purchase our paints through her. The color chart here is the translucent colors. We have the entire collection of colors. In the studio you will find the small jars of translucents in a flat box on the shelf. We also have totes that hold base coats, brushes, towels, and Q-tips.
This is a document that was created for a presentation at the MVCT February Retreat given by Jen Williams.
Learning to use Fashenhues products is easy and fun! We firmly believe there is no right or wrong (well, almost no wrong) way to use Fashenhues products. Each of us is an artist in our own way and we each will find more success in some techniques over others. Here, we offer only a guideline for you to begin finding your own methods and techniques.
Choose from any of our 48 Fashenhues Translucent Stains to paint your piece (Colors are oil based for easy application and use but are water soluble for an easy clean-up.)
ALWAYS STORE COLOR BOTTLES CAP UP
Bottles should only be bottom up while you are working on a project to make it easier to see and choose colors.
(*We recommend having a flat bisque surface available to test your colors. Colors often look very different when wiped back than when applied.)
You now have a finished piece you’ll be proud to display!
When painting a smooth area, for instance a sky scene, the color wipes unbelievably smooth, especially when you add a second color over the base colored sky. A good base color for a sky would be S-7, Blue Gray, or for a lighter base, S-42, Morning Glory. For a darker sky, you might use S-44, Denim as a base. When adding a second color with a cloth, the color just blends into the base sky color.
When painting flesh tones, antique with S-2, Mocha, or S-9, Gray. Load brush with Blending Media as explained, apply and wipe with t-shirt like material as you would normally do. It may be necessary to moisten your cloth with a bit of Antiquing Solution, AS-1 and lighten the antiquing color(s).
If desired, you can “set” each color with a light coat of Matte Spray to minimize the possibility of removing other colors from adjacent areas, if desired. (If you scrub hard enough, you can remove any color, sprayed or not.)